BI.VI.SI.: Revitalizing Sicily’s native, ancient vines for forgotten flavors like fruity Frappato #ItalianFWT

Sicily’s native, ancient vines

Sicilian viticulture goes back 3000 years, and the island’s indigenous grapes offer an incredible legacy to winemakers today. Since 2011 the Consorzio Sicilia DOC’s has developed a compelling portrait of Sicilian native varieties, and the BI.VI.SI. project further seeks to enhance Sicilian (SI) viticultural (VI)  biodiversity (BI) further in part by promoting forgotten flavors and identifying clones; so far 131 new alleged clones of the different vine varieties have been identified.

As an island in the Mediterranean off the “toe” of Italy, Sicily is surrounded by the sea and not far from Africa; the land and the culture benefit from being cut off and from intentional and accidental travelers — human, animal, and vegetable. Hence so many indigenous grapes and an unusual cuisine.  Read “An Intro to Five of Sicily’s Native Grapes” here.  Read Sicily’s Global and Coastal Influences: 5 Dishes Paired with 3 Nero D’Avola here.

Sicily soils

The more than 50 indigenous grapes in Sicily grow in ten different regions of the island ranging from sea level to over 3,000′ and with diverse soils from sedimentary sandstone and calcareous to granitic rocks to volcanic soils including rocks laid down by the active volcano on the island, Mt Etna. A range of micro-climates benefit both indigenous grapes and imported “international” grapes like Chardonnay and Merlot which are more well-known and might be an easier sell. But we urge you to expand your horizons and explore the indigenous Italian grapes growing in Sicily including Frappato, a rosato of Nerello Mascalese , and Nero D’Avola.

“Typically, Wines of Sicily are priced between $12-$25 on average,” shares a Wines of Sicily spokesperson. “Wines of Sicily has over 400 producers and each one works with their own set of importers.”

BI.VI.SI. started in September 2022 to revitalize native and ancient vines and celebrate “the way they convey forgotten tastes of the rich (agri)cultural tapestry of Sicily through a collaborative effort” with Consorzio Sicilia DOC, the University of Palermo, the University of Milan, Planeta, Tasca d’Almerita, Mario di Lorenzo, Santa Tres, Donnafugata, and others including Vivai Giacomo Mannone nursery. The project concludes in 2025. BI.VI.SI.’s innovative activities involve “the production of grafted rooted vines, the introduction of new planting materials like the barbatellone (a kind of rooted vine) for early production, and the transfer of best agronomic practices for the management of biotypes, minor vines, and ancient vines.”

Sicily cities and some of the major wineries

Goals for BI.VI.SI. include “the creation of new and exceptional wines” and “the establishment of a platform for knowledge exchange especially in light of climate change” committing to innovation in the vineyards, in research labs, and educational institutions. Demonstration days in vineyards and tastings of native and ancient vines will “inspire companies throughout the supply chain to explore new products that seamlessly integrate the historical-territorial aspect, providing a distinctive competitive advantage, greater added value, and enhanced profitability.”
This March, the Italian Food Wine Travel Group of wine writers with host Culinary Cam are investigating Italian Indigenous grapes — of which there are many to choose from, and we often write about:

Five of Sicily’s Native Grapes we wrote about in January 2023; photo taken in Ventura CA while dreaming of Sicily’s coastline

Since I wanted to introduce the BI.VI.SI. project, and plan to write more about it this year,  I suggested to Sue that we revisit Sicily. A year ago January we explored the topic of Sicilian indigenous wines, and wrote about these two whites and three reds here; some of these wineries are involved in the BI.VI.SI project as noted above.
  • 2021 Baglio di Pianetto Catarratto, Sicilia DOC
  • 2020 Donnafugata “SurSur” Sicilia DOC
  • 2020 Planeta Cerasuelo di Vittoria Sicilia DOCG
  •  2015 Feudo Solaria “Foglio Cinquanta” Sicilia DOC
  • 2018 Fazio “Castelmedia” Sicilia IGT

2 indigenous white wines of Sicily with traditional dishes

Here’s our January 2023 Sicilian Menu

3 indigenous red wines of Sicily with traditional dishes

First, I love how this recipe combines saffron, sardines, raisins, anchovies and fennel — ingredients that to me say Sicily. Second, I recommend that you read both of the recipes for tips and ideas on the dish. If I had reread the first recipe, I might have been tempted to dig fennel out of my yard where it grows WILD. I also would have suggested we add some of the fennel pollen and flowers I collected last fall as I found the fennel as prepared in the recipe Sue used rather bland, and the dish’s sardine flavor is intense even when cutting back on them substantially. Don’t get me wrong — it’s a dish I’d like to do again, I’d just try the other recipe, and I’d like to pair it with Sicilian white wines like Grillo or Cattarrato or even a Pinot Grigio grown in Sicily. I also would like to do a deep dive into Nero D’Avola, and I’d love to write about more Frappato — what a fun wine!. Stay tuned– and in the meantime, here’s the wines and the menu for March 2023:

3 Indigenous Organic Sicilian Wines

3 Indigenous Organic Sicilian Wines

  • 2021 Di Giovanna Vurria Nerello Mascalese Moscato Sicilia DOC
  • 2022 Gurrieri Frappato Terre Siciliane IGT
  • 2020 Baglio Di Pianetto Nero D’Avola

Menu for Sicilian Wines

  • Ciabbatta
  • Antipasta Salad with cumin and parsley garbanzo beans, salami, oil cured olives, artichoke hearts
  • Pasta Con Le Sarde (adapted from this recipe)

2021 Di Giovanna “Vurria” Nerello Mascalese Moscato Sicilia DOC

2021 Di Giovanna “Vurria” Nerello Mascalese Moscato Sicilia DOC

ABV: 12%
SRP: $19
Grapes: organic Nerello Mascalese
Importer: Regal Wine Imports
sample for my review 

Di Giovanna grows grapes organically in smaller areas in western Sicily, and makes the wines beside Monte Genuardo, a protected nature reserve. Brothers Gunther and Klaus Di Giovanna pioneered high quality rosato; they make this one from 30 year old Nerello Mascalese vines grown on tufaceous soil in Contessa Entellina. After hand harvesting, grapes are soft pressed for three hours, then fermentation in steel containers with again for about six months.

‘Vurria’ means to wish for, and the name comes from a Sicilian poem. The family has been making wine for five generations. It seems like they are getting what they with for! They also make a pet nat, and an orange wine and more, so I hope to try more of their wines soon! Should you or I visit, we’d definitely want to check out one of these experiences.

Appearance:  Apricot, copper, tangerine, amber,  pale orange rim.

Aroma: Earthen, minerals, florals, citrus blossom, gardenia or tuberose, apricot, cherry.

Palate: Fabulous mouthfeel is noticeable right off the bat, tart dried apricot, the iron rich volcanic soils are ever present, orange oil on the finish.

Pairing: The wine responds nicely to the spicy antipasto salad. It loves the pepper in the salami and the cumin in the marinated garbanzo beans, the combination of the saltiness and the spice brings out the cleanliness of the  wine, the sweetness of the fennel and the raisin in the dish harmonize nicely with the wine,  the rich salty fish works well with the wine and the pine nuts highlight the finish on the wine.

2022 Gurrieri Frappato Terre Siciliane IGT

2022 Gurrieri Frappato Terre Siciliane IGT

ABV: 12.5%
SRP: $25
Grapes: certified organic Frappato
Importer: Mucci Imports LLC
sample for my review 

Planted in 2007 in  red sand/limestone/claysoils, the organic grapes had 14 days of maceration with controlled low
temperature fermentation in stainless steel with indigenous yeasts followed by 6 months in stainless steel, 3 months in bottle with light filtration and cold stabilization. In the 1960’s the Gurrieri family began growing grapes in the little town of Chiaramonte Gulfi, near Ragusa. Passionate about agriculture, Giovanni Gurrieri began bottling his own wine in 2010 dreaming of creating Sicilian wines that represent the identity of the region. Here’s a link to their website.

“Frappato is an aromatic variety, unusual for a red grape,” says Giovanni. “The wine is brilliant mid-red in color, with clear floral and berry/pomegranate fruit notes and some spice and tea-leaf on the nose and the palate. Very useful food wine; I pair this with many pasta dishes, fish, pork, and roast chicken. Amazing with grilled tuna, and a clear candidate for the Summer Red Wine Hall of Fame. I drink it slightly chilled, but then any good red wine should be drunk at the cool cellar.”

Frappato: an easy-going wine that can change its depth and flavor when chilled. HINT: CHILL this wine!

Appearance:  Raspberry, very pale, very bright and vibrant, pale pink rim

Aroma: This was our favorite part of this wine! Very fruity, raspberry, mixed berries, bramble berries, sweet violets, anise, purity of sweetness, fresh mountain roses, cherry koolaid, vibrant.

Palate: Tart cherry, anise, caraway, fennel seeds, iron, lots of minerals, cherry phosphate, intense flavor considering how pale the wine is in the glass.

Pairing: Just yummy, not very helpful, but it just works, the sweetness of the raisins, the earthy saffron and the richness of the the pasta and the fish balance the wine so perfectly. This dish is about all of the the components in the dish and different flavors and how they bounce off the flavors of the wine. The dish is very different and very interesting and it goes so well with this wine. This fresh and fruity wine which also has depth and complexity absolutely loves the antipasto salad. It is a pairing made in heaven. Sue also wanted a margarita pizza with this wine thinking that that and the antipasto salad would be the perfect meal. On a subsequent evening, I enjoyed this wine lightly chilled with leftover roast chicken that was shredded and added to penne pasta with olive oil and a little pesto. This really is a great red wine for chicken or fish, and for summertime.

2020 Baglio Di Pianetto Nero D’Avola

2020 Baglio Di Pianetto Nero D’Avola

ABV: 13.5%
SRP:  ?
Grapes: organic Nero D’ Avola
Importer: Opici
sample for my review 

In 1997, Count Paolo Marzottohe founded Baglio di Pianetto, and his children and grandchildren now run Pianetto, 650 meters above sea level in mountainous terrain, and Baroni, 50 meters above sea level near the southeast coast where they  grow Sicilian native varietals including Catarratto (read what we said about it here), Frappato, Insolia, Grillo, Nero D’Avola, plus a French-inspired blend Ramione.  Here’s the website. 

“We want to cherish and strengthen our image,” said Francesco Tiralongo, CEO of Baglio di Pianetto. “We are committed to making organically-produced terroir wines which showcase both innovation and elegance.”

Dedicated to sustainable practices and limited environmental impact, they says the “winery is certified sustainable in compliance with EU legislation which includes practices like water conservation, using renewable energy, and reduced carbon emissions. In addition to that, the winery became certified organic in 2016. Through these minimal intervention techniques, each wine expresses the pure nature of the terroirs and the specific qualities of each variety.

Nero d’Avola: versatile so pairings that go beyond the main course, and may be the best bottle to pair with the entire night, from start to finish, and from savory to sweet.

Appearance:  Medium density, ruby, mauve rim, a bit of brown,

Aroma: Cherry, plum, rose, dried roses, cherry tobacco, iron, volcanic sulphur, cherry vines licorice,

Palate: Bright tart cherries, black pepper, very zesty, big tannins, bright acidity, grape stem, sandlewood,

Pairing: So perfect with the antipasto salad– it loves the spicy salami. This pasta dish has so many different layers of  flavors that it highlights and enhances the wine so perfectly, the raisins and the fennel are so good together with the wine, and while the two worked well together. Yet I felt that I just wanted more, either a rich cheesy meaty pizza of a osso bucco on a bed of polenta (which isn’t really Sicilian). It was really best with our antipasto salad.

UPDATE March 11– I’m heading to Sicily May 14-18 to attend master classes and visit wineries and vineyards to learn more about this innovative Italian investigation into indigenous grapes and clones!

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UPDATE March 11– I’m heading to Sicily

4 thoughts on “BI.VI.SI.: Revitalizing Sicily’s native, ancient vines for forgotten flavors like fruity Frappato #ItalianFWT”

    • Yes, Sicily! what a fascinating place! PS I would love to do this pasta with fresh sardines which show up sometimes at our fisherman’s market. And the Frappato is so delicious — I had the final glass of it last night with black cod and capers– so good!

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