Once upon a time, Carignan was one of the most important grapes grown in France and the US. In 1961, French vineyards grew 185,000 hectares of Carignan reports AAWE. In 1971, California grew over 25,ooo acres of Carignane. Today? Not so much. Looking at this chart below you’ll see today’s popular grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir are placed in number nine and number 16 in 1961, far behind Carignane.
So what happened?
In California, Carignane and Grenache grapes gave a big bang for the buck for brands like Gallo. They were blended in with other grapes and given what we now call “fantasy” names — names that might sound French but really had nothing to do with French regions at all— names they aren’t allowed to use anymore.
Fortunately, wineries like Ridge Vineyards revolutionized wine by paying attention to vineyards and grapes like Zinfandel and Carignane grown in older vineyards, seeking out the best throughout the state, and bottling it with labels exposing what was inside.
The final Thursday in October is Carignan Day. I am grateful to producers who saved these vines and continue to honor and celebrate them. I hope to continue to find them and enjoy them!
Wines
-
2021 Sans Wine Company Carbonic Carignan Poor Ranch Vineyards, Mendocino
-
2021 Bagias Family Wines “Evangelos” Old Vine Carignan, Lodi, CA
-
2017 tercero Carignane, Santa Barbara County, CA
-
2023 Ridge Three Valleys Red Blend Sonoma County, CA
Menu
- tomato bruschetta on toasted ciabbata bread
- cheese board; Comte, apricot stilton, mushroom brie
- caprese salad with homegrown tomatoes and basil with fresh mozzarella and organic arugula
- Sue’s homemade winter squash ravioli with a sage cream sauce
2021 Sans Wine Company Carbonic Carignan, Poor Ranch Vineyards, Mendocino, CA
ABV: 12.5%
SRP: $64 for 8 cans
Grapes: old vine organic Carignan
purchased at Northstar Resort, CA
Planted in 1943, these Carignan grapes come from the ‘Coyote Rock’ block on the Poor Ranch making it the oldest block of Carignan on the property. Fifth generation grape growers John, John Samuel and Susan Poor, grown their vines head trained, dry-farmed and certified organic. They placed 100% of the whole grape clusters in a stainless tank for carbonic fermentation with fermentation finished after 25 days. No added sulfites. Sans Wine Co. is owned and operated by husband/wife team, Gina Schober & Jake Stover. For more info: https://www.sanswineco.com.
“CLUSTERF@#!” is stamped on the bottom of the can – a reference to the whole cluster carbonic fermentation.
Appearance: Very pretty, ruby medium density, violet rim when catching the light, without light it is a bit mauve, unfined and unfiltered, looks like dust in the bottom of the glass
Aroma: Fruity, raspberry, blackberry, bubblegum, herbal, fresh herbs, minty, basil, earthy, fresh wet earth after a rain.
Palate: Slightly effervescence, tart raspberry, tart cherry, chalky tannins, very textural, leather, light and refreshing, fennel seed, black licorice on the finish.
Pairing: Great picnic and camping wine. So good with the fresh bruschetta, the tomatoes become so sweet and juicy with the wine. Not a perfect pair with the Comte cheese, good with the mushroom brie, Sue loved it with the stilton so perfect with the salt and the fruit in the cheese, lovely with the capers salad this is such a food friendly wine and loves everything about this salad. Great with the ravioli; the wine loves the richness of the squash filling. The dash of nutmeg in the dish jumped out with the wine.
I am so glad I saved this wine for so long for this occasion and to share it with Sue! Now to find more!
2021 Bagias Family Wines “Evangelos” Old Vine Carignan, Lodi, CA
ABV: 14.5%
SRP: $20
Grapes: old vine Carignan
purchased at Grocery Outlet
Evangelos Bagias made this Carignan from a 50 year-old Lodi vineyard and aged the wine in French oak for 10 months.
Appearance: Clear, medium density, ruby, fuchsia rim,
Aroma: Cherry, river moss, raspberry, licorice, rose geranium, mud
Palate: Cherry chocolate cordial, cherry tobacco, plum, mint, mud, big fruity, oxcallis on the finish which helps to balance the fruit,
Pairing: Nice with the Comte cheese, fabulous with the apricot stilton loving the salt in the cheese and the wonderful tart apricots. The mushroom brie makes the wine taste like a million dollars. Absolutely beautiful with the bruschetta, and equally beautiful with the caprese salad. The richness of the cheese and the pinenuts plus the bright fresh flavors of the tomato combines to produce a the final lingering flavor of sweet licorice; the sage in the cream sauce enhances the flavors of both the wine and the meal. Both the ravioli and the wine complement each other so nicely.
2017 tercero Carignane, Santa Barbara County, CA
ABV: 12.1%
SRP: $40
Grapes: Carignane
purchased with an industry discount at the tasting room
Larry Schaffer personally foot stomps his grapes. He also has a million SKUs for his many small lot wines. Need I say more about his attention to detail?
Appearance: Garnet, coppery rim, medium to light density,
Aroma: Raspberry, barnyard, earthy, hay, wet straw, old hay bail, funkadelic, oxcallis, blood orange,
Palate: Raspberry, blood orange, dried herbs, grippy tannins, tart cherry, light and bright, good acidity,
Pairing: So great with the tomato bruchetta, the wine intensifies the sweetness of the tomato it loves the herbasiousness of the basil and tames the fresh garlic, and highlights the fresh ground pepper, complexities in the wine bring out complexities in the food. So good with the mushroom brie a bit of funk and funk that is brilliant together, the rind of the brie just pops with the wine, so very good together, fabulous with the Comte this wine really brings out the sweetness of the squash. The ground pepper in the ravioli elevates the flavors of the wine as well. so very yummy with the caprese salad. The peppery quality of the arugula balances all of the other sweet rich flavors of the dish. So, so good together.
2023 Ridge Three Valleys Sonoma County, CA
ABV: 14.6%
SRP: $35
Grapes: old vine organic 71% Zinfandel, 16% Carignane, 9% Petite Syrah, 2% Mataro, 2% Alicante Bouchet
purchased on sale at Vons Grocery Store
Carignane was traditionally planted in the vineyard along with everything else a winemaker might want for their personal blend. While famous for single vineyard single varietal wines, Ridge wanted to know what was growing there and so had an ampelographer identify every vine in the vineyards.
We think it’s important to recognize Carignan for how it stands alone and serves as a blending grape. Plus I had this bottle in my cellar!
Appearance: Very pretty, ruby, pink rim, medium density
Aroma: Bubble gum, Bubble yum, bazooka, red vines, twirlers,
Palate: Cherry phosphate, jolly ranchers cherry, blue fruit, nice structure, bright acidity, cherry tobacco, leather,
Pairing: Nice with the Comte cheese making us want to have a croquet monsieur to pair with this wine. Innteresting cheese meets interesting cheese! Very nice with the mushroom brie, fabulous with the bruschetta. The basil in the salad just pops with the wine: the creaminess of the cheese and the spiciness of the arugula makes it so the dish almost replicates the flavors in the wine. The dish mirrors the flavors in the grape and enhances it that way. the nutmeg in the ravioli really sings with this wine, it seems richer and so much like the holidays. Serve this ravioli dish next to a roast turkey paired with this wine and you can’t go wrong.’







