2023 Highlights: Travel to Tuscany, Veneto, Abruzzo, Alentejo; Wines and Pairings from France, South America, West Coast, and more!

2023 in review featuring bottles of wine from La Maliosa in Tuscany which I visited in 2023

Where did we go in 2023 and where are we going in 2024? When I posed those questions to my writing partner Sue Hill earlier in December, she perused the 80 some articles we did, considered the 250 or more wines we wrote about, and remembered the pairings to come up with this list of her Top 1, 2 or 3 from each month. It’s taken me a little longer to get to my thoughts: my son was home from college and we worked on a bunch of projects in the yard and house, I’m fostering a boxer-terrier-bulldog, and now we’re in Tahoe on a family ski vacation and celebrating my birthday which is Thursday. 

2023 on the run with 2024 on its heels (aka Moose my foster dog)

As I reflect on 2023, I marvel at the amazing experiences I had with wine, food, and travel abroad for three weeks in Italy and 10 days in Portugal. I’ve barely scratched the surface of the stories I want to tell. 

Wine Predator Gwendolyn Alley inspects the head trained vines with Antonella Manulli


I have a lot to be grateful for as a wine writer.

Thanks to Sue Hill for all of her help in 2023. Grateful also to the many wineries that provided samples for Sue and I to write about, to importers like Verovinogusto who bring in super special wines, and to PR professionals like Jane Kettlewell and Kate Morgan-Corcoran for their expertise and seminars as well. Grateful also to winemakers who invited me into their cellars and wineries to taste and to learn. Too many to thank all of them but in particular a shout out to Antonella Manuli for hosting us in Tuscany Fattoria la Maliosa. Grateful for the opportunity to travel to Portugal and to Italy in 2023 and looking forward to more travel in 2024.

When I posted the picture above of the La Maliosa bottles in January 2023, I had no plans to return to Italy. After all, I spent two weeks in Italy in Fall 2022, and La Maliosa’s leader Antonella Manuli spoke on my panel about Slow Wine, Slow Food at the Wine Media Conference. But when the invitation came to visit Abruzzo and then Veneto, I said yes! I was able to tack on a few days before and a few days after; before, I visited Famiglia Febo in Abruzzo (here’s an article about their cerasulo, and here’s an article about why Febo should be in Italy’s Slow Wine Guide) and after, I visited Sandro de Bruno in Veneto (we wrote about there sparkling durello here, and La Maliosa in Tuscany (here’s my article about visiting paradise). 

And then in November, I had 10 days in Portugal on a press trip with Creative Palate’s Jane Kettlewell where I attended a weekend’s worth of San Martinho events. The second weekend in November is the traditional time to tap the talhas and taste the fruits of the year’s labors, and I wrote about it here. I had so many incredible experiences on that trip, and I’ve started writing an article revealing the secrets of Alentejo and Portugal. Stay tuned! Subscribe!

While Sue’s highlights are more related to the food and wine pairings, my highlights are related to my experiences, some which remain to be written about. But that being said, I definitely have some favorites from 2023 that serve to highlight a very busy year full of travel as well as tastings and winemaker lunches. I do my best to get as much here on Wine Predator as possible as well as on my Art Predator Instagram account (which has non-wine adventures also!). 

But before I get to my highlights, what were readers reading the most? 

In 2023, I published on Wine Predator 81 posts. 

  • On the first Saturday of the month, we published about Italian Wine Food, and Travel; I missed out on publishing in September (I was at Burning Man) and in November (travel to Portugal). We’ve participated for seven years.
  • On the second Saturday of the month, we published about Wine Pairing with featured wines from around the world. We completed every one each month, as we have done for over seven years.
  • On the third Saturday, we published about French wines broadly defined in 2023, and we’ve participated every month for seven years or more. 
  • On the fourth Saturday in 2023, we wrote about wines from South America, and there is much more to say in 2024 about this continent. Find the titles and links to all 12 posts here.

My goal each year is 108 posts, because 108 is an auspicious number in the Hindu tradition, and it means posting twice a week with two extra.  I really thought in 2023 I’d get to at least 84. I have a number of articles in draft, but after the business of the holidays, driving and skiing, yard work and dog dragging, family and friend time, I’ve been too tuckered out to get all the writing done I’d planned and prepared to do in 2023! This is quite a few posts fewer than in the past 7 years– I usually post from around 100 to 150. I’ve written a total of 1344 posts on Wine Predator, and I really thought I’d get to 1350 this year. 

In those 81 articles of 2023, I wrote almost 114k words averaging 1400 per article! A HUGE thanks to Sue Hill who takes most of the tasting notes.

The most popular post of 2023 was from Aug 20, 2021: 4 Wines and 4 Dishes To Try from The Jura 

The second most popular post of 2023 AND the most popular post from 2023 written in 2023 was from Oct 14, 2023: Romania Beats Netherlands 108-107 in RVF’s 2023 World Wine Tasting Championship

  • My posts about the World Wine Tasting Championships consistently rank high in popularity. There’s been a fair share of controversy in the past five years about the US team as well possibly fueling the rankings. 

The third most popular post of 2023 comes from A Julia Child Inspired Menu including Braised Short Ribs and Petit Verdot from Bordeaux #Winophiles

  • This has been popular ever since I first published it. Great meal, great wine. 

The second most popular post from 2023 written in 2023 was published Visiting Paradise in Tuscany: Organic Farming at Antonella Manuli’s Fattoria La Maliosa and Saturnalia Wine Bar #ItalianFWT

  • I’m glad people have enjoyed this post. I’ve linked to it a few times here for various reasons and it is definitely one of my Top 3 favorite posts of 2023. Antonella sent me home with a bottle of one of her award winning wines which I will be writing about sometime soon– and no later than March which is Women’s History Month. We first wrote about her wines in March 2019, so it will be fun to review and reflect on what I’ve learned and written in the past five years.

The third most popular post in 2023 written in 2023 was published Range of Rhône Wines Provide Delightful Diversity Paired with Citrus Salad and Instant Pot Cassoulet

  • And I’m writing about cassoulet again this week, and again with Rhone wines!

Most popular in 2023 by most opens by email subscribers: Celebrating São Martinho Day and Amphora Wine Day 2023 In Portugal’s Alentejo with 3 Georgian Amber Amphora Wines + Traditional Dishes  followed by the World Wine Tasting Championship results 2023 

Most clicks to read posts by email subscribers in 2023: Wine Predator Sue’s 2023 Favorite Wines  followed by 4 US Sparkling Surprises: Sonoma’s SEPPI, Paso’s Halter Ranch, WA Gorge + Fav Festive Finger Foods #WinePW which is tied with the World Wine Tasting Championship results 2023 

Now on to my favorites and highlights from 2023! I tried really hard to just pick one from each month and to note if any wine in particular stood out.

And with New Year’s Resolutions for 2024! 

Five of Sicily’s Native Grapes

January: 5 posts 

FAVORITE: An Intro to Five of Sicily’s Native Grapes and Its Unique Cuisine Inspires Island Dreams #ItalianFWT

  • Those inspiring island dreams may be coming true in 2024! Fingers crossed I get to Sicily and southern Italy this year as I’ve now visited much of central and northern Italy (Lazio, Abruzzo, Veneto, Lombardia, Piemonte, Bologna, and Tuscany).
  • Resolution: Keep trying and being inspired by Italy’s indigenous grapes, including the many from Sicily!

February: 8 posts with a tie between

  • We loved tasting and touring and playing with worms with Susanna Vasquez on our trip to Lodi and in 2024 we hope to visit her again now that she’s at Lange Twins.
  • Resolution: feed the worms!

TIE: Family Traditions: Domus Hortae’s Organic Wines and Orrecchiette Pasta from the heel of Italy, Puglia

  • I love tasting out of the ordinary and extraordinary grapes and Italy is full of them! The meal was interesting too and I need to revisit those dishes! In March 2024, we will be focusing on two themes: indigenous grapes of Italy and women wine makers of the world.
  • Resolution: Italy’s indigenous grapes for the win! 

Turley’s winemaker Karl Wicka

March: 8 posts

FAVORITE: How To Check Out My “Judgment of Paso” article on Jancis Robinson + Details on Paso Wines from Law, Niner, Robert Hall, Turley with Pairings

  • I went on a really great press trip to Paso where I visited several wineries, met with winemakers, and learned so much about this region (thanks to David Glancy of San Francisco Wine School) some of which was included in an article published on JancisRobinson.com with more details in the article linked to above. I wrote about my February visits to Tablas Creek and Robert Hall in April 2023. 
  • Resolution: Get to Paso Robles! Sue and I planned to visit over winter break but with the weather we didn’t make ti happen.

Keeping It Local with Clos des Amis Wine

April: 8 posts 

FAVORITE 8 WAY TIE??? 

  • I can’t choose! Wow, we wrote about some incredible wines in April 2023— no surprise actually because April is Earth Month so we pull out all the stops plus it’s National Poetry Month which also inspires me. Biodynamic wines from Tablas Creek and Robert Hall and biodynamic Waterford whisky just to name three posts.
  • Resolution: Seek out and write about biodynamic wines, beers, and spirits as well as foods.

2021 Famiglia Febo Cerasuolo D’Abruzzo DOC

May: 9 posts

FAVORITE : Cerasuolo from Organic Famiglia Febo and Biodynamic Lunaria with Abruzzo Inspired Saffron Mussels, Pecorino and Pasta #ItalianFWT

  • We did some great sauvignon blanc pairings in May but I’m going with the Famiglia Febo cerasuolo not just because I love the wine and the meal (SWOON!) but I can’t help but remember my visit there which I’ll be writing more about in 2024. I tasted a lot of cerasuolo in June of 2023 while in Abruzzo and still this one from Famiglia Febo is one of my Top 10 wines of 2023. I feel like I could drink this daily and never get bored with the wine or the range of food pairings.
  • Resolution: Drink more cerasuolo. If you don’t know cerasuolo from Abruzzo you should make that a goal in 2024! 

When in Rome

June: 4 posts

FAVORITE : When In Rome, Do As The Romans: Enjoy Lazio’s Thin Crust Pizza, Cacio de Pepe plus Wine #ItalianFWT

  • What an adventure I had in Roma with Kelly who I met through the Italian Burning Man group! This recap hints at the food, wine, and good times I had during my visit. This was also a very popular post with readers. No wonder Rome is such a popular destination also; I’m so glad I had two nights and one more day in Rome before leaving after my three weeks in Italy.
  • Resolution: Visit more of Italy and see more of Rome, too.

Paradise in Tuscany: Organic Farming at Antonella Manuli’s Fattoria La Maliosa

July: 5 posts

FAVORITE : Visiting Paradise in Tuscany: Organic Farming at Antonella Manuli’s Fattoria La Maliosa and Saturnalia Wine Bar #ItalianFWT

  • When I was in Italy on my own time before and after the press trips to Abruzzo and Veneto, one of the most important places I wanted to go was to Antonella Manuli’s farm and to see first hand the Metodo Corino, which is a vegan sort of biodynamic permaculture. This captures just a taste of our experience– and hopefully convinces you to visit!  More to come about this trip in 2024!
  • Resolution: Antonella Manuli plans a US trip in March 2024, so try to introduce her and her wines to as many people as possible.

Imagine Bologna

August: 4 posts

FAVORITE : A Visit to Bologna After Devastating Floods plus 2 Emilia Romagna Red Pet Nats by Women Winemakers Paired with Pasta Bolognese #Recipe and Fennel Flower Salad #ItalianFWT

  • What a tough month for me personally. July was busy with family, and I was trying to finish an online teaching certification course which I absolutely hated and took far more time than I thought it would. And in August I was trying to get ready for Burning Man and to teach when I returned. So only four posts, but this one was super important to me. I even published one article while at Burning Man… you really can’t even begin to imagine what that took to make happen. 
  • Resolution: Bring awareness about environmental devastation and disasters, and help people understand the relationship to climate change and their own choices– personal and political. 

September: 4 posts

FAVORITE : A Story About Placement: Burning Man 2023, Brazil’s Netuno Gengibre, and Fig Cookies #WorldWineTravel

  • We only published four articles and yet so hard to choose — they are all solid wines, but I will never forget that spirit from Brazil I was given at Burning Man and what we did with it when I got home! Well that would be what Sue did — she’s a brilliant mixologist.
  • Resolution: Be open to connecting with others in the world and trying new wines and foods.

Bianca Vigna amphora orange wine

October: 7 posts

FAVORITE : A Visit to Veneto: BiancaVigna in Valdobbiadne and their Glera Orange Amphora Wine Paired with Cicchetti #ItalianFWT

  • I love this amphora made glera sparkling wine and the small bites Sue created to pair with it. I loved visiting this winery in Veneto and just wish we’d had more time to spend in the vineyards. They also served us the most delicious cheese that had grapes in it. This wine would definitely be on my Top 10 for 2023! 
  • Resolution: Visit Veneto and the STEEP vineyards of glera that goes into DOCG Prosecco.

Mauro Azoia and his wife kiss in front of the amphora they use to make their wine

November: 10 posts and a tie–So many great memories and so many great wines from these articles made it really difficult to choose!

FAVORITE : An Invite to Write about the Wines of Lombardy plus a visit to Valtellina, sightseeing at Sirmione, and Avansi Lugana di Sirmione DOC #ItalianFWT

  • I loved remembering my visit to Lombardy, and introducing people to the region. 
  • Resolution: Make time to experience cultural elements in a community — there’s more to life than wine when traveling! 

TIE: Celebrating São Martinho Day and Amphora Wine Day 2023 In Portugal’s Alentejo with 3 Georgian Amber Amphora Wines + Traditional Dishes

  •  I love amber and orange wines, I love amphora wines, and this post really reminds me why I love what I do as a wine writer.
  • Resolution: Find, taste, and write about more orange and more amphora wine and get to Georgia to do so also! Yes, there’s a press trip there I’m considering!

Ottella’s Amphora Lugana DOC

December 9 posts 

FAVORITE : Getting Back to Silence with Ottella’s Amphora Lugana DOC #ItalianFWT

  • Once again Italy for the win! But it’s not so surprising considering I spent two weeks there in Fall of 2023 and three weeks six months later. There’s nothing more magical than visiting the place and meeting the people where the wine comes from. While my general emphasis and personal preference is to focus on wines made biodynamically or using permaculture practices, Ottella is an exceptionally beautiful place… and the wines were delicious too. 
  • Resolution: Get more art in my life in 2023 — and not just at Burning Man.

Which articles are your favorites? Please share in the comments!

Also these highlights from 2023: 

  • January-October: Led a Burning Man art support theme camp and worked on an art installation 
  • March: Participated in Bequinox Burning Man regional event where I created an art installation “Womb with a View”
  • April: Led a writing workshop and participated in a panel on Lucid Dreaming at Lucidity
  • December: John White’s 5 x 5 x 5 — Gave a living history performance about Theodosia Burr Shepherd
  • December: Arts in Exile — Performed poetry as part of a TV variety show that will be up on YouTube soon

So where will I go in 2024? 

Virtually, one big change is that the four wine writing groups I’ve been a member of for many years have decided instead of doing four prompts a month to only do one. This will open up a lot more time for Sue and I to write about wines that we are more passionate about rather than trying to address a prompt. Although these prompts motivated us and at times inspired us to push ourselves, too often they have been tedious and we have found ourselves going through the motions to complete the assignment or to find ways to make it of interest to us… and then we have made lemonade out of lemons– or would that be wine out of grapes? 

A second big change is that after teaching Fall 2022, and Spring and Fall 2023 (and regularly before COVID), I currently don’t have a teaching assignment for spring, While running out of unemployment is daunting, I’m thrilled to have more time for writing about wine and other topics, and for travel. I have a number of projects that I’m itching to get to, and people have approached me about projects that I haven’t had time for in the past 18 months.

There’s so much to see and write about in the western United States close to home, and abroad, I’ve been asked if I’m interested in possible trips this late winter and spring to:

Coming up next: the gifts of wine… and cassoulet! 

Cheers to an adventurous 2024! fabulous photo by Helen “Pineapple” O’Neill

 

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