The landscape north of Rome is lush and flower filled on the right and views of the ocean and islands dominate the left. I drove up mostly along the coast a little over an hour, and then headed toward the hills and Saturnia, home of some of the most beautiful hot springs in the world. As a hot springs aficionado I would know– and yet my previous trip here I only had time to ogle them from afar and not soak in them. That will change this trip as I am staying here for longer and with a more relaxed schedule.
Traveling over multiple time zones is confusing to mind, body, soul, and electronics. Some are more perplexed than others, some sleep like a baby, and others are given super power to just keep going and going and going and going much like the Energizer Bunny (yep I’m in the Energizer Bunny Category — hence this blog post! But then again, fading fast and might just hit publish on some deranged idea or a missive full of typos! )
My watch is unsure what if anything there is to measure in the previous 48 but wait what about the 8 or is it 9 hour time difference? Was there any sleep the plane? How many steps go with which day?
Travel went well– my passport is good for another 9.5 years, friend Claudia Miklas drove me to the airport two hours before takeoff– and then we were delayed by 45 minutes making the whole check-in and security hassle less stressful, and since I just sat out the standing in line drama, not a bad wait at all. A 12 hour flight is what it takes to get here, and I spent my hours in economy with an aisle seat and an empty one beside me watching films in Italian with English subtitles where they all painted a picture of Italian men as terrible womanizers (hmmm, maybe someone should add some other films?) As it grew late California time but morning Italian time, I tried sleeping with ear plugs but was hampered by surrounding conversations of the group that had a block of seats around me.
I was looking forward to a smooth rental car procedure after spending a lot of time setting yp the reservation at AAA but unfortunately Sicily by Car is less expensive because they are severely understaffed. And a friend warns to check for uncharges and other unexpected fees. Also note: if you plan to drive overseas, do get an International Drivers Permit— which is easy to get through AAA for $25.
Tonight and tomorrow I am at The Nest where we stayed last time and then I will stay at Antonella Manuli’s house for a few nights– and hopefully a night in one of the four Starboxes nestled in the La Maliosa Vineyards and olive orchards! The StarBox experience comes with a picnic basket of provisions for dinner and breakfast. How unique and special this will be!
This trip to Italy breaks into three easy pieces:
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Week One 8-14 May I’m in Tuscany as a guest of La Maliosa, and my focus is on La Maliosa’s regenerative viticulture in Maremma and Altura’s island organic viticulture over the weekend. La Maliosa just achieved an important award from Slow Food for their organic olive oil with the awards ceremony Th. May 9 in Florence; read about my visit last year here “Visiting Paradise.
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Week Two, I will be in Sicily as a guest of Sicilia DOC May 14-18 hearing how they are learning about their indigenous grape diversity in order to survive climate change with Master Class on two important and historical grapes to the area, Grillo and Nero d’Avola. We will be in the Palermo area, but I’m hoping to also get to Etna after the press trip and before I head back to Roma Monday May 20. A huge thank you to Sicilia DOC for paying for my flights and instigating this trip!
Day 1: May 14th arrival and welcome dinner
Day 2: May 15th
● Tour to the historic city center of Palermo
● Masterclass on Sicily’s Wine and Sicilia DOC with a focus on Grillo
● Guided tour of Palermo Botanical Garden
● Dinner with Sicilia DOC producers
Day 3: May 16th |
● Masterclass on Sicilia DOC wines with a focus on Nero d’Avola
● Gorghi Tondi: tour, lunch and wine tasting
● Relax, dinner, stay at the Donna Franca Wine Relais in Marsala
Day 4: May 17th
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● Masterclass focusing on Sicilia DOC native varieties
● Cantina Fina winery: Lunch and wine tasting
● Check-in at the hotel in Palermo
● Terre di Gratia winery: Visit, wine tasting, and dinner -
Day 5: May 18th: Breakfast at the hotel; Check-out; departures
forgive the funky formatting!
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- Week Three, I will be in Campania as a guest for this year’s edition of Campania Stories 21-25 May! We are staying at Tenute del Gheppio, which looks glorious, and venturing from there to various wineries and tastings. I may arrive a day early and stay a few days later, or I may be in Rome.
- Tuesday, May 21-25 Campania
visits to wineries and territories
5PM Welcome to the press with opening conference to Rocca dei Re8ori – Benevento Light dinner - Wednesday, May 22 09:00 AM
white wines (especially falanghina, fiano and greco), lunch
visits to wineries and territories, Dinner with producers - Thursday, May 23 09:00 AM
Tasting: monovarietal and blend white, sparkling, rosè, non-structured red wines Lunch, visits to wineries and territories, Dinner with producers - Friday, May 24 09:00 AM
Tasting structured and aging red wines Lunch, ,Visits to wineries and territories, Dinner with producers; Campania Stories Day – Campanian wine reserved for regional press and industry operators - Saturday, May 25
Visits to wineries; Departures
While I’d love to stay in Campania Saturday evening, Sunday, and Monday, I fly back to the US at the crack of dawn on Tuesday May 28. So I will be in Rome at least Monday night and probably Sunday too.
There is so much to see and do in Italy! The days will fly by! I’m not going to have too much free time but I’m always open to recommendations!
In other news, while I did not win a judges award in the for the Wine Travel Awards competition, I did receive this email:
Dear Gwendolyn!
The WTA jury evaluation is over, and the WTA team would like to thank you for your participation in the Wine Travel Awards 2023–2024. Even though you are not selected by the jury as the final winner of your category, you have a bright result as one of the public voting winners and you are now part of the WTA community!
I will be included in their annual book promoting wine travel promoters and writers so thanks to all of your votes. I’ve been invited to the awards ceremony in London which takes place when I’ll be in Italy, and I have my priorities straight–I’ll stay here! Find all the winners and more details here.
I’m falling asleep! Yay! Here’s to conquering jet lag!
Upcoming posts: port for moms, and Languedoc for a #Winophile, three red organic wines for Oregon Wine Month, lots more on organic wineries around the world, and more about this trip so subscribe! You can stay up to date by checking out my Instagram — art_predator. Direct link on the left.


