Carménère has quite a lost to found story. On this day, Nov. 24, 1994, everyone in Chile thought it was Merlot until ampelographer pointed out why Chilean Merlot vines and wines were so different when he found them to be  Carménère, a grape originally from France which was thought to have been just about lost during the pholxera epidemic! Now November 24 is known as Carmenere Day to commemorate this important event. Read all about that Carménère story here in “Extinct No More”.

But there’s much more to Carménère than a case of mistaken identity and a fun story to tell at table: with regional differences to be explored, modern interpretations and elegant herbal elements being produced, with a range of price points from affordable to splurge worthy, and with many potential food pairings from Thanksgiving turkey leftovers to Christmas and other holiday dinners to traditional Chilean dishes like chicken chimichurri and beef stew with squash, Carménère is a wine that you should get in your glass. 

Carménère has a great story to tell at table:

One of the reasons that no one figured out that all that one third of the Merlot in Chile was actually Carménère was that until the 1990s when varietal wines became popular no one really cared what was in that red blend. Once people did care, they were looking for grapes they recognized like Cabernet Sauvignon which does really well in Chile and is their number one grape in terms of production with 39%. In fact, in the 1990s, some producers continued to put Merlot on the label even when they knew it was mostly Carménère because it was an uphill battle to get people to appreciate unknown grapes like Carménère.  

Pyrazine is no longer a dirty word.

Pyrazines are the chemical compound in wines that give them notes of green peppers, like jalapeños or bell peppers; today some producers are embracing pyrazines recognizing that they are an authentic aspect of this grape. Pyrazines occur naturally in grapes, some more than others — looking at you Cabernet Franc! No wonder, as Cabernet Franc is a parent to Carménère (with Cabernet Sauvignon a sibling). While similar in character to its parent, Carménère’s pyrazine qualities are more pronounced in Chile because of the climate and soils– Chile has 23 microclimates!

Clay soils bring out the pyrazine qualities, so in the past, grapes were allowed to get very very ripe to balance out the flavors which also meant higher alcohol content and dark blue fruits with a rich palate. Around 2017, winemakers began valuing the pyrazine qualities and picked earlier to have a medium body and more red fruit. 

Carménère’s Regions and Characteristics 

So where Carménère is planted makes a difference in the wines. In 2021, 25,500 acres were planted in Carménère in Chile, with many vineyards full of old vines with newer ones planted alongside. Carménère  does well in mild, cooler areas with plenty of sunshine like the Colchagua and Cachapoal Valleys in the O’Higgins region where Carménère dominates with 14,000 acres or 55% of the vineyards. In  valleys that run from the Andes west to the coast, Carménère produces a range of different styles. With over 8k acres, Maule has the second most Carménère vines. While climate is similar, the soils vary as well as the ages of the vines. 

How to pair Carmenere

So what to pair with Carménère? Just about anything goes — as long as it has chimichurri sauce! Yes, even a rich fish or chicken marinated in it or simply drizzled over it makes any food pop and pair with Carménère which can be fun for a change of pace. If you’re fond of wintry stews, a traditional Chilean beef stew with squash pairs well, and was the suggestion of the Chileans on a recent ZOOM. After tasting the wines, we decided to pair the lighter, greener wines with the chicken and the heavier, fruiter oakier wines with the beef stew. 

Menu 

• Fresh grape and olive foccacia homemade by Sue
• Caprese salad with homegrown tomatoes and basil with basil flowers 
• Grilled vegetables 
• Chicken chimichurri (purchased marinated with extra sauce made by Sue)
• Chilean Beef Stew with pumpkin
• Chimichurri Beef with squash flatbread  

Since Carménère Day lands on or close to Thanksgiving in the US, it’s a great opportunity to enjoy this grape with hearty, rich, and festive fall foods like smoked ham and roasted stuffed vegetables. Here are more ideas for pairings:

• Since Carménère works well with grilled and smoked meat as well as bacon, in 2021 we paired three Carménère wines with a paprika spiced smoked ham (read about it here), plus Brussel sprouts and pancetta.
• For Carménère Day in 2020 we paired four different Carménère with grilled lamb. 
• In 2019 and in 2016, we paired instant pot osso bucco and a squash gratin with Carménère (read more here and find the recipe too).

Wines 

• Viña San Esteban In Situ Carménère Reserva 2021 / $13
• Morandé Vitis Única Carménère 2021 / $20
• InVina Luma Chequen Gran Reserva Carménère 2020 / $17
• Primus Carménère 2020 / $21
• TerraNoble CA2 2020 / $36
• Montes Wings Carménère 2020 / $55

Viña San Esteban In Situ Carmenere Reserva 2021

ABV: 13.0%
SRP: $13
Grapes: 95% Carménère and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon
Importer: Joseph Victori Wines, Inc
Where: Aconcagua
Pairing: chicken

Fruit comes from two vineyards in the Aconcagua Valley, one on Paidahuen hill 3,000′ and the other near Aconcagua River. Macerated for 18-day, then aged in 50% French and 50% American oak barrels for 12
months. We found that this wine really over performs at its price point. 

Appearance:  Ruby, medium density, very pretty color, bright, vibrant, youthful, ruby rim

Aroma: Cherry, cherry cough drop, earthy minerals, herbal, black current tea, cherry tobacco, raspberry, cranberry, tart red fruit, fresh mown grass, bell pepper, 

Palate: Tart red cherries, cranberry, bell pepper, interesting textural aspect, suede, earthen, dirt, 

Pairing: The tomatoes in the salad are so fantastic it is hard not to enjoy them with the wine. The spicy arugula adds a kick, the wine responds perfectly to herbs, the more the better, the spicy herbaceous chimichuri is so perfect with the wine. Grilled veggies are also quite nice with the wine. The wine loves the char the the grill adds. 

Morandé Vitis Única Carménère 2021 

ABV: 13.5%
SRP: $20
Grapes: Carménère
Importer: RMIX
Where: Maipo Valley
Pairing: Chicken 

The San Bernardo vineyard in the Maipo Valley on the north side of the river in a bed of pure gravel provides the grapes that are 80% aged in foudres, with the rest in French barrels.

Appearance:  Raspberry fushia rim, vibrant and youthful, 

Aroma: Very herbal, cherry, bell pepper, 

Palate: Tart cherry, bell pepper, spicy red hot candy, cinnamon, spicy but not sweet, nice lengthy finish. Fresh and full of fruit with velvety tannins.

Pairing: The caprese salad and the wine are a really banging pairing” as came out of Sue’s mouth, The herbsous quality in the salad resp0nded perfectly to the bell pepper hints in the wine. The rich umami tomato highlighted the fruit in the wine and all of that together makes for a perfect bite, The rich fresh mozzarella brings it all together and helps the wine resonate, really good with the grape and olive foccia, the savory and sweet is great with the wine. The green notes in the herbal chimichuri bring out great herbal notes in the wine. We felt that you could even take the chimichuri chicken and slice it thin to place on top of the grape and olive foccocia. The flavor profiles match perfectly. There are many flavor aspects in the wine that are matching flavor aspects to the meal. 

InVina Luma Chequen Gran Reserva Carmenere 2020

ABV: 13.9%
SRP: $17
Grapes: Carménère
Importer: Invina USA
Where: Maule
Pairing: Beef stew

Fruit from two vineyards in the Maule region make up this wine: the cool climate, granitic Batuco Estate in the Cordillera de la Costa range and warmer Las Tizas estate in the Pencahue area which has clay and sandy soils. Cold maceration, then aged for up to 12 months in oak barrels, this Carménère combines the herbal pyrazine with ripe fruit while the palate is broad and the tannins grippy. A wine that over performs at its price point, and one you’d expect to be much more expensive because of its very hefty bottle.

Appearance:  Ruby, maroon, mauve rim, dense

Aroma: Jalapeno pepper, jalapeno pepper jelly, ripe cherry, clay, black pepper, woodsy spice, tomato leaf, rhubarb, grippy tannins. 

Palate: Cherry, jalapeno jelly, lots of complexity, very lengthy finish, black licorice, tobacco, cherry tobacco, a bit oaky, rhubarb, a bit of burnt toast, tar, fuller bodied, heavy wine. Lots of cherry and herbs!

Pairing: What a great midweek meal and pairing! Make the stew over the weekend and heat it up; very satisfying. 

Primus Carmenere 2020

ABV: 14.5%
SRP: $21
Grapes: Organic Carménère
Importer: Gonzales Byas
Where: Colchagua
Pairing: Beef stew

Sourced from organic vineyards in Apalta in Colchagua from soils rich in granite and clay, the fruit is aged 12 months in 18% new French barrels, and is ripe and rich due to the warm, dry year. Honestly, when we’ve tasted this wine before we were not as impressed as we are this time with these pairings. 

Appearance:  Ruby, raspberry rim, very youthful, medium density

Aroma: Cherry, cherry pipe tobacco, Christmas spices, pine, cranberry, cinnamon, clove, evergreen forest

Palate: Velvety smooth, tart cherry, cherry tobacco, cherry and oak, eucalyptus, bell pepper, 

Pairing: The beef stew worked very well with the wine, bringing out richness in each. Not surprisingly, also excellent with the flank steak.

TerraNoble CA2 2020

ABV: 14.5%
SRP: $36
Grapes: Carménère 
Importer: Winebow
Where: Colchagua
Pairing: Chicken 

The grapes come from a cool area in the winery’s vineyard in Lolol, in the Cordillera de la Costa in Colchagua with native oak forests nearby on ferrous granite and clay soils and then are aged for 16 months with 42% in new 300-liter barrels and the rest in untoasted foudres. 

Appearance:  Ruby, purple, fushia rim, very bright, medium density

Aroma: Cherry, bell pepper, earth, mud, dried roses, chaparral, dry brush, black pepper, wild mint

Palate: Ripe cherry, black current tea, black pepper, dry tannins, fresh plum skin, cocoa nibs, dry dark chocolate, hint of bell pepper on the finish that resonates. 

Pairing: The spices and the herbs in the chimichuri chicken work so well together, but what puts it over the top is how well the wine responds to the heat in the chimichuri, The wine and the grape olive foccia are so complementary to one another is tis almost as if the two flavor profiles are one in the same, the wheat and the yeast are perfect grounding elements. Trader Joe’s and other grocery chains has chimichuri sauce that would work perfectly to bring things together in a pinch. Yummo with the caprese salad, arugula is this wine’s friend and the rich sweet vine ripened tomatoes are so perfect in bringing out the fruit in the wine. Many people are skeptacle of pairing wine with salad, however this rich and savory caprese is perfect with the rich and savory wine. I also tried it on a subsequent evening with the beef stew and that was a favorite pairing! 

Montes Wings Carmenere 2020 

ABV: 14.5%
SRP: $55
Grapes: Carmenère 85%; Cabernet Franc 15%. 
Importer: Kobrand 
Where: Colchagua
Pairing: Beef stew

According to provided materials and a ZOOM with media like me, there’s a long running dispute between Aurelio
Montes Senior and Junior about the style for this wine. Regardless, we loved it! Carmenère grapes are grown in the granitic Apalta vineyard, and aged 18 months in 70% new oak barrels. 

Appearance:  Very dense, a bit cloudy, dark ruby, ruby rim, 

Aroma: Cherry, eucalyptus, cherry ricola, a bit of bell pepper, sandalwood, pine, incense cedar, very woodsy, dried rose petal, potpourri, more cinnamon than clove, blue fruit, black pepper.

Palate: Velvety texture, cherry, eucalyptus, all of the flavors are so integrated and delicious, it is a bit challenging to highlight one flavor over the other. They all come together so well with cherry,  cranberry, velvety texture, rhubarb, blue fruit, and a lingering finish.

Pairing: While with an expensive wine you’d think of an expensive cut of meat, but we used the best ingredients in the stew, and high quality meat. The wine has lots of complexity as does the dish, and it was also excellent with the flank steak.

 

#WorldWineTravel Writers on Carmenere

• Here are the links to the articles the #WorldWineTravel Writers will be sharing!

 

•  Camilla Mann of Culinary Cam will share “Carménère: Two Shades and Two Continents.”
• Terri Steffes of Our Good Life shares “The Beginner’s Guide to Carmenere”
• Wendy Klik of A Day in the Life on the Farm shares Churrasco and Carménère; A Perfect Match
• Martin Redmond of ENOFYLZ Wine Blog shares Delving Into The Rich World of Chilean Carménère.
• David Crowley of Cooking Chat shares Pairings with Carménère from South America.
• Here on  Wine Predator we share 6 Carménère 
• Sharon Parsons of Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon shares Celebrating International Carménère Day with Clos Apalta Carménère.
• Host Robin at Crushed Grape Chronicles shares Chilean Carménère and Charquican to celebrate Carmenere Day.