You probably already know that Champagne is a sparkling wine from Champagne and only Champagne, a region in northern France where growing conditions are challenging. But if you only buy Champagne at a grocery store or big box store, consider branching out to discover there’s more to that family tree in Champagne! For example, you might want to try wines that are made by the person who grew the grapes; these are called grower-maker wines and this is indicated on the label with an RM for Récoltant Manipulant (French for “grower-producer”).
In contrast, NM on the label means Négociant Manipulant; these are grapes that are grown and then sold to the big Champagne houses that you’ve likely heard of and that are easy to find on the shelves.
Why search for RM wines? This is a subject we explored a few years ago (read here), and we’ve written about several times since including our visits to grower maker houses in Champagne like Vincent Charlot (read about our visit here and read about a subsequent Charlotte pairing in 2021 here).
Generally speaking, RM producers focus on expressing their terroir, or sense of place, of specific vineyards while the larger houses are blending the grapes they buy and creating a “house style” with their blend and dosage. RM producers are typically small, family run operations where they have control of the wine from beginning to end — from the ground to the glass. While the big houses may blend grapes that are grown organically, they are rarely organic as they are blending from several growers. The smaller RM wineries more often maintain organic and biodynamic practices— and they can tell you about them. More small growers focus on sustainable and terroir-driven practices including organic or biodynamic farming.
Grower maker wines can be hard to find and expensive, especially those certified organic or biodynamic. But sometimes if you keep your eye open you’ll find some great deals. That was my case the other day at Grocery Outlet where I spied a pair of RM wines from Champagne Colin located in Vertus, France, about an hour south of Reims and about two hours east of Paris.
According to the Reveuse website, for generations the Colin family has grown grapes for luxury houses and cooperatives. The seventh generation decided to make their own wines, and so twenty years ago, Delphine Colin, along with her husband and brother-in-law, began bottling bottle their own Champagne while continuing to also sell grapes. Today, all of their grapes are made by Delphine– the first woman in a leadership role at Colin.
Champagne Colin practices organic and biodynamic farming but are not certified. However, she says, “We have the HEV (High Environmental Value) certification for our Champagne grapes and all of our land…the HEV certification is above and beyond the rules of Champagne to make sure we are caring for the terroir that has been in our family since the 18th century.”
So this Champagne Day — annually on the final Friday of October– read the fine print and find a bottle of grower with RM on the label for “grower maker”!
Wines
- Champagne Colin “Reveuse” Blanc de Blanc Premier Cru Brut, Vertus
- Champagne Colin “Reveuse” Brut Cuvee, Vertus
Menu
- Baked Brie plus cheese board with triple cream brie, mushroom brie, Asiago, Parmesan
- Matsui Apple Salad with Brussels Sprouts, Prosciutto, Asiago
- Apple, Bacon, Squash Risotto with Parmesan
Learn more about Champagne Colin here.
Champagne Colin Reveuse Blanc de Blanc Premier Cru Brut, Vertus
ABV: 12%
SRP: $70; purchased at Grocery Outlet for under $25
Grapes: 100% Chardonnay
Independent vigneron and sustainable
Appearance: Ripe Meyer Lemon, a bit cloudy, active bubbles
Aroma: Green apple, kiwi, a little brioche, thyme
Palate: Green apple, bubbles dissipate quickly.
Pairing: Very nice with our tart sharp cheeses but even better with the creamy cheeses. Harmonizes with the salad beautifully— all of the different flavors come together so well. The delicious risotto was not enhanced by the wine as the dish was a bit too sweet for the wine.
Champagne Colin Reveuse Brut Cuvee, Vertus
ABV: 12%
SRP: $60; purchased at Grocery Outlet for under $25
Grapes: 65% Chardonnay and 35% Pinot Meunier
Appearance: Golden toasted almond active delicate perlage like sea foam.
Aroma: Baked red apple, apple danish, caramelized sugar, sage, cinnamon.
Palate: Tart apple, lemon, danish, bubbles disappear quickly.
Pairing: Great with all of the creamy cheeses, but not so good with the tangy sharp cheeses. ery nice with the risotto loving the creamy richness, the salty bacon and even the sweet creamy squash, this wine was not so great with the salad, it fights with the tangy sharp cheese and the salty prosciutto. We thought maybe if the risotto had toasted pecans or walnuts over the top it would have been even better.
What’s in your glass this #ChampagneDay?
On Oct. 24, people around the world will raise a glass to honor the unique sparkling wine that can only come from Champagne, France! Founded in 2009 by wine educator Chris Oggenfuss, Champagne Day, celebrated each year on the fourth Friday in October, has since grown into a worldwide celebration.
Whether at a restaurant event, with someone you love, or at a Champagne food and wine pairing with friends, celebrating Champagne Day is about enjoying life’s special moments. The Comité Champagne maintains a list of Champagne Day events (and a countdown clock) here.
Be part of the global toast by sharing your photos and videos on social media with the hashtag: #ChampagneDay! If you’re hosting an event, the Comité Champagne offers a communications kit to help your Champagne Day sparkle.



