Visiting Tuscan Vineyards and Enjoying La Maliosa’s Procanico to Celebrate World Biodiversity Day

Winemaker Antonella Manuli inspects a young La Maliosa vineyard she owns that’s full of biodiversity

Today May 22 is International Biodiversity Day, and I spent it exploring the Fattoria la Maliosa vineyards in Maremma, Tuscany with owner, winemaker, and vineyard manager Antonella Manuli. This is my third visit in as many springs, and this year, in particular, I am keen to see the rare and almost extinct grape Procanico which she helped resurrect. Procanico, a local clone of what’s known as Trebbiano Toscano, belongs to the large Trebbiano family, one of the most popular and oldest known vines that’s mentioned by Pliny the Elder in Naturalis Historia. La Maliosa’s Procanico vineyards come from Vigna Madre, a half hectare vineyard well over 60 years old that was abandoned and renewed by Antonella Manuli, the owner of Fattoria La Maliosa, a woman dedicated to the recovery of the historical authenticity of the area including the traditional grapes.

Procanico cylindrical clusters spread out on the stem

Formerly cultivated widely in the Maremma and the Tuscan archipelago, Procanico was almost completely abandoned because it didn’t adapt to increased mechanization as well as the trend in Tuscany towards making wine from international varieties.

But Procanico’s vigour and hardiness allows it to withstand challenging weather conditions including high summer temperatures, droughts, and storms common in these territories during harvest making it an excellent candidate as we propel forward to a changing climate with unexpected and dramatic shifts. Procanico grapes produce a wine that offers a complex structure with tannins surprising for a white wine and a complexity of fruits and herbs that work well with food.

To visit several of her vineyards including Procanico to see the progress this vintage, we traveled in her small car up steep hills and down dale on ancient narrow country roads that Etruscans built over 3000 years ago by cutting through compacted volcanic ash noting biodiversity along the roadside as well as in her vineyards which range in age from 35 years to only a few years old. This year has seen extended and gentle rainfall giving the countryside a lush green coat, and the grassy hillsides are still cloaked in green with wildflowers everywhere you look— and excellent conditions for the vines, with Antonella’s techniques sopping up every last drop of rain.
According to FAOʼs “Third Report on the State of the World’s Plant Genetic Resources for Food and Agriculture”, genetic diversity is key to creating more resilient agrifood systems that withstand challenges such as shifting climate patterns. Since 80 percent of the food we consume is plant-based, preserving a wide range of genetic materials allows farmers to grow crops and varieties suited to their local environments, enhancing food security and livelihoods, states a Slow Food press release.

Biodiversity in the vineyard makes for healthy soil and vines and planet; this purple pea, a legume, provides nitrogen to the roots of the vines

“Dedicated policies for agricultural diversity in the fields are absent in many countries or do not adequately involve all stakeholders,” says Edward Mukiibi, president of Slow Food, and a self-described seed farmer. “In all 128 countries that contributed to the FAO report, instead, the presence of informal seed systems emerged, consisting of farmers and local communities that play a central role in the conservation of agricultural biodiversity and in defending farmers’ rights. We need a legal framework that can sustain and grow agroecology, which offers a pathway for a transition towards sustainable food systems. We also seek support from institutions at all levels, to counter the serious risk to global food security.”

According to the International Day for Biodiversity, the 2025 event seeks to:

  • Bolster public awareness of the centrality of biodiversity to all life on Earth, including socio-economic challenges such as poverty and inequality.
  • Call for the rapid preparation of National Biodiversity Strategies and Action Plans (NBSAPs) leaving no one behind.
  • Highlight the importance of seizing synergies at all levels, including through a whole-of-government, whole-of-society implementation, with the UN system bringing its support to national actors through consolidated UN Sustainable Development Cooperation Frameworks.
  • Encourage bolder initiatives by all actors, including the private sector, civil society and the media to communicate biodiversity science and initiate the required transformations to decouple socio-economic progress from the destruction of nature.

In its resolution A/RES/55/201 dated 8 February 2001, the United Nations General Assembly proclaimed 22 May as the International Day for Biological Diversity to increase understanding and awareness of biodiversity issues. This date commemorates the adoption of the text of the Convention on Biological Diversity (CBD) on 22 May 1992.

Antonella Manuli in one of her vineyards May 22, 2025, Maremma, Tuscany

With her patented regenerative agricultural philosophy “Metodo Corino”, Antonella works to preserve and create biodiversity in a number of ways including leaving at least one acre wild for every one planted, cover crops, no tilling, championing and recovering rare and indigenous “forgotten” and almost lost grapes, and more. The Maremma is a dry region, and when rain falls, it hits plants first, breaking up the drops before they reach the earth, each precious drop of rain naturally conserved in the deep mulch and the spongey volcanic soil.

In one newer vineyard, Antonella planted vines among large older olive trees already growing there in the traditional way. Even though the hillside previously had no sign of vines, the way the olive trees were aligned indicated the location of a vineyard there previously.

olive trees dot the vineyard in the traditional way at La Maliosa

On our tour of the vineyards, Antonella was very happy with the health of the vines and the beautiful berries starting to form. She tries to visit all of her vineyards at least every ten days to direct her small team on how best to manage the progress of the vintage. Because of the extensive mulching she does and other regenerative practices like cover crops, the soil is so soft and healthy making for strong vines. Her wines and olive oils are available worldwide, and in the US are imported by Verovinogusto (which is based in my hometown of Ventura).

This evening, we enjoyed the fruits of Antonella Manuli‘s labors at her restaurant Saturnalia Wine Bar in Saturnia, Tuscany, while toasting World Biodiversity Day with Uni, Fattoria la Maliosa‘s revival of the Procanico grape as expressed as an orange wine with three weeks’ skin contact that produces a brilliant, vivid amber color. Many of these grapes that went into the 2023 are actually considered old vines at 35 years old; we visited these older vineyards earlier today.

Antonella Manuli and her 2023 Procanico at her Saturnia restaurant Saturnalia in southern Tuscany near where the Procanico vines grow and the wine is made at La Maliosa

This “orange” Procanico wine has intense aromas of apricot and spice, with apricot also on the palate, and a lovely mouthfeel with a spirited note of fresh mint mid-palate. At Saturnalia, I selected gnocchi in pomodoro sauce made in-house with tomatoes at their prime during the season then shared the rest of the year— so much fresh flavor!  When the gnocchi was gone, I loaded the bread with the remaining sauce. So good— and with this wine? Wow.

Procanico and gnocchi

Happy #InternationalBiodiversityDay! How are you celebrating World Biodiversity Day?
Following my visit this week to the Maremma and La Maliosa as Antonella’s guest, I’ll be seeking out wineries that also promote biodiversity and regenerative agriculture in Puglia at Radici del Sud 4-9 June, in Austria 10-15 June at Princely Wines of Liechtenstein and others near Vienna practicing RESPEKT-Biodyvin, and at a Montefalco in Umbria 16-20 June. These are all new wine regions for me and I am so excited! I will finish my trip with a quick visit to Florence, then a few more wineries in Tuscany with more time at La Maliosa with Antonella to see the vineyards again in early summer, and then back home to California.
Stay tuned by subscribing to Wine Predator and to my Art_Predator Instagram!  I have lots of great content waiting to be published plus reports from this trip! Cheers!

Gwendolyn Alley with La Malissa’s Uni Procanico (photo taken by Antonella Manuli at Saturnalia in Saturnia)

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