Winemaker Antonella Manuli inspects a young La Maliosa vineyard she owns that’s full of biodiversity
Today May 22 is International Biodiversity Day, and I spent it exploring the Fattoria la Maliosa vineyards in Maremma, Tuscany with owner, winemaker, and vineyard manager Antonella Manuli. This is my third visit in as many springs, and this year, in particular, I am keen to see the rare and almost extinct grape Procanico which she helped resurrect. Procanico, a local clone of what’s known as Trebbiano Toscano, belongs to the large Trebbiano family, one of the most popular and oldest known vines that’s mentioned by Pliny the Elder in Naturalis Historia. La Maliosa’s Procanico vineyards come from Vigna Madre, a half hectare vineyard well over 60 years old that was abandoned and renewed by Antonella Manuli, the owner of Fattoria La Maliosa, a woman dedicated to the recovery of the historical authenticity of the area including the traditional grapes.
Procanico cylindrical clusters spread out on the stem