Today, Friday October 27, marks the 14th annual global Champagne Day with events around the world in person (Champagne Day website listing events here) and on social media with the hashtag #ChampagneDay– and you’re invited!
Many consider Champagne the ultimate sparking wine for celebrations, and with harvest pretty much over in the northern hemisphere, there’s plenty to toast! We’d like to raise a glass of Champagne Tarlant “Zero” Brut Nature to honor the women of wine — in Champagne and elsewhere– and recognize their hard work that went into getting the grapes in to the winery and then into the glass and for us to know their stories. For so much, I am grateful to Caroline Henry, author of Terroir Champagne: luxury of sustainable, organic, and biodynamic cuvees. When I visited her in August 2018 before harvest and in October 2019 at the close of harvest, we enjoyed her “house” Champagne, Champagne Tarlant, organic certified with biodynamic practices, and owned by the family with siblings Benoît and Mélanie Tarlant running the show now in this twelfth generation of consecutive ownership.
When I found a bottle of Champagne Tarlant “Zero” Brut Nature at Vinovore in Silver Lake (a woman owned and run shop that features wines and wineries where women have important roles), I knew this was the wine I wanted for Champagne Day today.
Menu
- cheese board with marinated goat cheese
- raw and grilled oysters
- green salad with heirloom tomatoes, fennel flowers, Purple Haze cheese
Champagne Tarlant “Zero” Brut Nature
ABV: 12%
SRP: $60; purchased at Vinovore
Grapes: 32% Pinot Noir, 32% Chardonnay, 32% Meunier, 4% Petite Mesiler, Arbanne, Pinot Blanc
Importer: Louis Dressner
Siblings Benoît and Mélanie Tarlant are the 12th consecutive generation working the family land which is now 14 hectares certified organically farmed. Pierre Tarlant started his first vineyards in Burgundy back in 1687 then 100 years later Louis Tarlant moved to Oeuilly to plant vineyards in Champagne. In 1911, Louis Adrien Tarlant served as mayor of the town and with colleagues, got an AOC for Champagne area in 1927. When Louis swore to never again sell a single grape to the big houses, he and his wife were among the first to produce their own cuvee “Carte Blanche.”
For two generations, Tarlant vines have been farmed organically, achieving certification after Mélanie joined Benoît in the family business in 2003. Benoît primarily learned the trade from his grandfather and father, and enjoys experimenting while respecting history and the land. In 1999, he began working with biodynamic principles with a philosophy he calls “herbotherapy” according to Caroline Henry’s chapter on the winery.
Benoît and Mélanie vinify individually 63 parcels each vintage allowing them to highlight single vineyard expressions as well as precision in blending for base and reserve wines. Because of the Marne’s extremely diverse terroirs, Benoit adapts his viticultural approach parcel by parcel, using the soil, grape and micro-climate to guide him, says his importer who also reports that “grapes are gently pressed and racked by gravity to Burgundian barrels, where each parcel ferments and ages individually. Malolactic fermentation almost never occurs but is not blocked: Benoît feels that through careful pressing, attention to temperature and the correct viticultural practices, Champagne’s naturally cold climate gives them grapes with low PH and high acidity, a combo that does not incite malo. Sulfites are only added in microscopic doses at press and intermittently to casks of reserve wine. The wines are never
filtered: ‘Disgorgment is sort of like a filtration. If you’re going to take the time todo long élevages andletting the solids deposit themselves, you don’t needto filter. It requires a respect of the rhythm of the wine.””
Their production is 90% no dosage which showcases the purity of place.
Appearance: Buttercup, nicely golden, very small delicate bubbles, so small.
Aroma: Brioche, apple, fennel, saline, limestone, chalk, chamomile, essence of the sea,
Palate: The bubbles are so small visually, but on the palate they are all over, still small but very lively, quite persistent, zingy, very tart lemon, green apple, tart yet rich, creme brûlée, caramel apple,
Pairing: No surprise, this is a fabulous champagne wine and as such paired so well with food. So nice with our marinated goat cheese loving the creamy goat cheese with olive oil, the peppercorns in the marinated goat cheese shine with the wine, The salad was perfect with the wine working perfectly with the fennel pollen, the purple haze, and the rich vine ripened tomatoes. We also had a grilled oyster with the wine which was out of this world.



